Recycled turbans flip couture, courtesy designer Pavneet Kaur who is without doubt one of the 10 finalists at the Redress Design Award 2023 that was introduced just lately.
The much-awaited sustainable vogue award by the environmental charity headquartered in Hong Kong goals to ‘educate and empower designers and shoppers to scale back clothes’s damaging influence on the setting, thereby accelerating a change within the round vogue business’.
This 12 months, the workforce obtained entries from 46 international locations, and the 30 semi-finalists function 4 Indians. Today, the finalists will showcase their collections at the Grand Final Fashion Show in Hong Kong.
Pavneet Kaur
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Pavneet Kaur, finalist
Hailing from a Sikh household in Dhampur, Uttar Pradesh, Pavneet was used to the Sikh males round her carrying turbans on daily basis. What she couldn’t get used to was the linked textile waste. “I used to see many five-metre-long turbans discarded by my father and brother. I began gathering them from my dwelling and from family members to create textile artwork utilizing artistic methods similar to appliqué and kantha,” says Pavneet, 25, whose newest assortment Eutopia, for Redress, options outfits from these very discarded turbans.
The assortment — comprising clothes, shirts, and jackets “for all ages and sizes” — is impressed by the Solarpunk motion’s (the sci-fi, social motion that marries the setting with expertise) emphasis on mixing Nature with the optimistic and optimistic imaginative and prescient of the long run, explains Pavneet, including how Eutopia makes use of the cut-and-sew approach the place the material is patched and appliquéd collectively. “The materials from the turbans, fabricated from cotton and silk, is double-and triple-layered for sturdiness,” says the designer who holds a Postgraduate Diploma in Fashion Design from Pearl Academy’s Delhi-West campus.
Conceptual sketches from Eutopia
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The silhouettes, she says, are “timeless and outsized to suit each dimension and form”. This assortment is a pointy distinction from her earlier assortment ‘Beauty in Mundane’, which was impressed by the damp partitions in a rented home in New Delhi. “The Idea was to upcycle silk saris and wool waste utilizing the nuno felting approach. This assortment was additionally chosen for Woolmark India Awards 2019,” says Pavneet who will discover zero-waste patterns and display screen printing methods for her upcoming assortment “impressed by Indian cities”.
A conceptual design by Apoorva Dudeja
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Heirloom saris: Apoorva Dudeja, semi-finalist
Saris painstakingly sourced from relations type the core of Apoorva’s assortment, Saath. She says the idea revolves round exploring cultures and the significance of being collectively, which Apoorva’s mom and her 4 aunts instilled in her as a toddler. “I supposed to mix various restore and upcycling methods from a number of international locations to construct the core of my assortment. Everyone’s contributions change into a bit of the quilt, patchworked collectively for a brighter future. The preliminary function of those methods to resolve the difficulty of textile shortage has now shifted to deal with the difficulty of textile abundance,” says the 24-year-old designer who sourced cotton and acrylic web cloth from a recycling manufacturing facility.
Apoorva Dudeja’s assortment, Saath, revolves round exploring cultures and the significance of being collectively
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Explaining the reconstruction and upcycling methods adopted within the assortment that includes clothes, jackets, skirts, shirts, blouses, tops, and pants, Apoorva says “components of layering, reversibility, and attach-detach design had been added to permit the wearer to interact, experiment and trade with others”.
While gathering the saris, she says no color palette was in thoughts, however the vary turned out to be vibrant. “It options contrasting colors together with whites, oranges, greens, blacks, blues, and yellows, she says of the silhouettes that vary from fitted to boxy and exaggerated.
Apoorva Dudeja’s temper board comprising contrasting colors together with whites, oranges, greens, blacks
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As for the method of gathering the saris, Apoorva says her goal was to “know their stunning tales”. “If the saris had not been rescued they might have weakened after being saved for years, finally discovering themselves in landfills.” Her favorite weave is her mom’s inexperienced chiffon sari. “She purchased it 25 years in the past in Haridwar, her hometown, whereas she was getting married. It had beautiful floral embroidered motifs, and has been worn by nearly each lady within the household,” says Apoorva, recalling the way it was worn by family members throughout Panipat, New Delhi, Chandigarh, Mathura, and Roorkee. .
Upcycled denim: Aashita Jain, sem-finalist
A fascination for underwater life led to Aashita’s assortment Corals Matter. The broad thought, she says, is to “utilise the fields of artwork and vogue to stimulate discussions about coral reefs, and their conservation”.
Aashita Jain
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For the present assortment, the 31-year-old designer behind the label Punah, crafted three ensembles with a prime, skirt, gown, and outsized jackets. “We are within the technique of designing a full capsule assortment, which may even embody unisex clothes similar to shorts, shirts, bomber jackets, and jumpers,” she says, including how denim scraps had been used to craft every textile coral reef element utilizing free-motion embroidery and hand-sewing methods. “The varied shades of blue used within the creation of the corals replicate their pure counterparts and white denim was used for the parts of the reef which have change into totally bleached,” she says.
With the denim scrap sourced from New Delhi, Ahmedabad, and Kolkata, alongside cotton, Aashita says the above-mentioned methods resulted in zero-waste outfits. “To create the floor of the gathering, I used cut-and-sew waste, end-of-roll denim, and discarded cotton. The denim remnants are skillfully lower into coral-inspired designs and meticulously assembled utilizing free-motion embroidery, leading to a shocking lace cut-out impact,” she says, including that every piece takes roughly 48 to 180 hours to finish.
Corals Matter includes tops, skirts, clothes, and outsized jackets.
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Having experimented with denim patchwork, denim kantha, and natural cotton remnants in her earlier assortment, the artiste will proceed her work with discarded denim remnants for her upcoming line too. “We might be using varied methods together with basket weaves and floral patch appliqué, to create fascinating floor designs,” she concludes.
Restructured shirts: Lenox Pinto, semi-finalist
The younger designer’s summer season travels to Jaipur have honed his assortment J’aipour Homecoming, a menswear vary comprising shirts, trousers, and coats.
Lennox Pinto
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Lenox says he drew inspiration from royal apparel and gave them a up to date spin. “The vary options solely a touch of conventional brocade however silhouettes impressed by the normal bandhgala and the angarkha for a worldwide viewers. I’ve additionally integrated textures from the animals I noticed throughout my time there,” says the NIFT graduate of the pangolin-inspired coat, and cheetah trousers, amongst others.
An outfit from J’aipour Homecoming that makes use of secondhand shirts from Mumbai’s Chor Bazaar
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For the apparel, Lenox says he sourced secondhand shirts from Mumbai’s Chor Bazaar and reconstructed them to create the brand new clothes. As for the assorted textures he experimented with, the designer says, “I like taking part in with totally different textures to maximise the complexity of clothes in subdued methods. I’ve used animal pores and skin patterns as the principle inspiration to raise my designs. These time-taking textures are created by hand from the tiny unusable items of material every lower individually and positioned collectively.”
The Redress Design Award 2023 Grand Final Show will happen on September 7 at Centrestage in Hong Kong