Fashion loves juxtaposition. So it’s hardly a shock that the hooded gown, nestled amid the paradox of a component designed to cover the wearer making them stand out, has risen to the high of fashion’s trending lists.
The silhouette lately catapulted to fame at the Cannes Film Festival 2023 — that concludes in the present day — when Aishwarya Rai Bachchan walked the carpet in a Sophie Couture robe with a huge silver hood hooked up to the black corseted bodice. While this look prompted the hooded robe to occupy mainstream Indian consciousness, it has hardly been the just one round. Mrunal Thakur walked the Cannes carpet in an ornate hooded outfit by Anamika Khanna whereas Anne Hathaway was labelled “mom” by social media feeds globally for her sequinned Versace gold hood at a latest Bulgari occasion.
First launched by Yves Saint Laurent on the runway in 1969, the hooded gown silhouette was popularised by Azzedine Alaia’s customized Bond-girl wardrobe for Grace Jones in the 80s. The latest trendy resurgence has seen it throughout worldwide homes like Saint Laurent, Alaia, Coperni, Halpern, and Schiaparelli to call a few. Closer residence, designer Gaurav Gupta’s hardened shell hooded creations have drawn consideration, particularly in an electric-blue iteration worn by Cardi B for the Grammy Awards 2023.
So what’s it about the silhouette that has discovered favour with celebrities throughout the globe? “I believe hooded silhouettes are gaining reputation proper now, particularly with celebrities as a result of they are continuously making an attempt to redefine themselves,” says Lylah Shaw, founding father of the label Ituvana. “As a designer, I discover the technicality of designing and creating hooded clothes thrilling as a result of it provides a component of thriller and edge to the outfit,” she provides about the silhouette’s private enchantment to her. “I’ve experimented with incorporating hoods with conventional clothes like kaftans and kurtas as nicely and it immediately presents a distinctive and unconventional fashion.”
For Gaurav Gupta, the enchantment of the hooded gown lies in its drama. “People are in search of one thing new, totally different, and attention-grabbing. Numerous conventional outfits of many cultures had this silhouette as the touchstone of the drapes or hats folks used to put on and I additionally see the hood changing that whereas including the proper form of new age drama to it. It’s a new silhouette that’s being broadly accepted, which is thrilling for me proper now.”
Additionally, with the fast and reliant rise of the fashion markets in the Middle East and south-east Asia, hooded clothes are climate acceptable and resonate with cultural values too.
The cultural join
“I believe hooded silhouettes present a sense of nostalgia,” Lylah says. Hoods have been worn throughout cultures by way of the years, as markers of cultural identities and faith. This nostalgic enchantment has performed a big function in the silhouette’s reputation. “The act of masking one’s head with a hood carries a sure symbolism and evokes recollections of various occasions and traditions. I believe celebrities are making an attempt to consider what an outfit means to them as a particular person,” she provides.
Take, for instance, mannequin Bella Hadid paying homage to her Middle Eastern roots with a hooded gown at a latest look at Fashion Trust Arabia Awards. This fashion-forward intersection represents a celebration and normalisation of self-expression and cultural identification.
A brand new-age sensuality
In a sartorial panorama populated with skin-tight silhouettes and bare clothes, the hooded gown appears antithetical. However, regardless of the extra cloth on a hooded robe, they often add a degree of attract to the wearer that the slinkiest of strappy clothes don’t.
A significant factor for that is the consolation a hooded gown affords the wearer. “Simply put, if you happen to really feel good in an outfit, you look good,” says Fatima Punjaabi, founding father of the label Mati. “Hooded clothes have a good steadiness of an uncovered neckline and even shoulders whereas including thriller with the hood.”
There can also be the fluid aspect of the languidly draped materials that add to the sensuality. “Fabrics play a essential function. High high quality silks and cottons drape and movement gracefully and improve the total sexual enchantment,” says Lylah.
The silhouette’s reputation seamlessly transcends into the actual world. Straddling the line between couture glamour and high-street ease, informal variations of hooded clothes have the potential to be a lasting development.
The development off the runways is a little extra relaxed, with shift clothes and tunics adorned with a minimal hood. Mati’s breezy hooded tunics had been favoured by their clients based on Fatima. “The hooded tunic did very nicely for us. People aren’t utilizing the hood like in the gowns with celebrities. It’s simply a cool enjoyable aspect. With gowns it’s elegant whereas with informal clothes it’s extra sporty.”
The hood can also be an understated extension of self-expression, making it a fascinating alternative. “I believe it’s equally attention-grabbing for the shoppers to put on this off the runway – it’s simple and daring at the similar time and makes a correct fashion assertion,” concludes Gaurav.